Thursday, January 08, 2009

Potrero Chico 08: Day 14 - V and G

Not a whole lot happened today. After a later start, we warmed up on the Wonder Wall, doing 2 easy 10s. We hiked up to Estrallas Canyon to get on Fear of Flying, 12a. It had come highly recommended, so I got on enthusiastic to see what everyone was talking about. For me, it was the worst climb I've been on here. The first three bolts (the only three I bothered climbing) were exactly the type of climbing I don't like: balancy technical face climbing with sharp crimps. If I want that kind of shit I'll go to Smith. So, with no shame, I backed down.

The woman next to us was saying the same thing, that she didn't like that type of climbing and agreed it's not that important to stick it out if you're not enjoying it. Her boyfriend seemed to agree. She had called him V, and I asked what his name was: Vadim Vinokur. I knew of him from climbing news back when I started climbing. He's onsighted 13b and redpointed 14d. Homeboy used to be SUPER strong, but since he started law school he's had to prioritize. He was walking up the 12s and remembering every piece of beta about each route.

Not only was it cool to see him climb, but we talked about the financial crash, as he's interested in practising financial and securities law. He also lives in Brooklyn and has friends that were employed by some of the big investment banks that went under. It was interesting to hear his perspective: If things don't change soon, the devaluation of the dollar will lead to hyper-inflation, and our money will be better used to heat our houses than pay for them.

We also met some Canadians and we spoke a bit about US politics. That'll have to be a separate blog post. Good night!

Update: Vadim onsighted one of the 13bs up at Surf Bowl. So freakin' strong!

Today's pics

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