Wednesday, December 26, 2007

Watch out for the Crocmen!

This is possibly the most horriblest crap on the planet right now.
"There's no excuse for that."
-- Sean McCleary
Momma Irwin must be getting desperate.

Tuesday, December 18, 2007

Week in review

yes, mid-week...

Friday: I went to my company's holiday party at my boss' house. All the current coworkers came, and a few past colleagues too. Ewan and Yosh, former business partners in Ziran, were there and it was really nice to see them in good spirits again. It had been quite a while since they had seen each other, and old grudges seemed to fade away. I played Rock Band for the first time, and it was HELLA fun. The most fun I've had playing a video game in years.

Saturday: I had another soccer game. With most of the team not there, we had 4 ringers. We scored 4 goals... all by our ringers. One played keeper the whole time which was nice for me. The other team was down a girl so we matched them until their 3rd girl came. It was a great game. I had a nice assist off the boards but no goals.

Sunday: I met up with Joe Neff to play more Rock Band. Turns out he's freakin' great on the drums. I killed it on guitar and bass, and gained a newfound appreciation for real musicians, especially the better ones.

Edit: Duh, I forgot to write about the holiday lights bike ride. Amy and Dave from the PRG and soccer team hosted a little get together before we took a bike ride around town. We went through NE and some of NW, then through SE. Amy and I got to see the holiday light boats, which are these boats that have... you guessed it: holiday lights on them. I was smart enough to NOT bring my camera (not even sure why I bought the damn thing since I always forget it) and we ended on Peacock Lane. Here's a map of the ride, almost getting back to my house (for me at least.) Btw, I was not expecting an 18 mile ride that night. Um, no map, Google won't serve it up. Not happy...

Monday: Played on Linux all day. While setting up servers isn't SUPER fun, it's nice to be back on the command line. Still, PHP sucks. I cannot wait to use Rails. And I went to my 2nd Queens of the Stone Age concert last night. They are such a tight band, it's incredible. Moira came too, and it was really nice hanging out with her. We got into a discussion on the Electoral College. Booooooooooooo!!! I need to look through this book again.

Thursday, December 13, 2007

I cannot WAIT for Internet Explorer 8

The reason: IE 6 will be 2 versions old, so I no longer have to support it. For all those suckers out there that will still be using it after IE8 rolls out: you're stupid.

2 Things I Love

  1. Smoked Salmon from Trader Joe's
  2. Cocktail Grapefruit, also from Trader Joe's
If you haven't tried cocktail grapefruit, you must. It's not as sour or bitter as regular grapefruit. Seriously, go buy one now, prepare it in a bowl and put it in the fridge to enjoy in the morning.

Sunday, December 09, 2007

2007 Oregon Kicker

is AWESOME!!! I just got back a good chunk of change, so I went out and bought a Toro leaf blower and finally cleaned my yard. Not sure what I'll do with the rest...

Thursday, December 06, 2007

Tool... what can I say?!?

Last night I saw Tool for the second time, and it was an incredible show. Trans Am and TU (2 guys from King Crimson) opened and they were both quite good. But when Tool came out the place went nuts. The Memorial Colosseum is not the best place to see a concert. The acoustics are bad and they had seats in the general admission area. I did not care though, because I was there. The music was amazing, but Maynard's vocals were a little too quiet, possibly because we were stage left way up in the nosebleed section. The light show was spectacular, including the hi-res video they projected onto the white floor they were playing on.

Hopefully this is not their last tour and I can see them again, with my bro this time.

Wednesday, December 05, 2007

Monday, December 03, 2007

I watch Nip/Tuck

Can you tell which comment is mine?

Sunday, December 02, 2007

Wait for it...

366 Days... and my roof starts leaking!

We've been having a lot of "stormy" weather here in Portland for the last few days. Tonight I got home and found the roof in the garage leaking. It's not horrible, but it's not awesome either. I jumped up on the roof to check it out, and it looks to be where the 2 pitches of the roof come together (sounds like I'm talking about a route.) The guy that's replacing my windows also does residential roofing and I'll have him look at my gutters too. Way to start off the winter!

One Year and One Day

I closed on the house one year ago yesterday. How fast this year has gone by! Hopefully before the holidays I can have the last 3 aluminum windows replaced. The new windows are on order. After that, my bathroom floor!

Saturday, December 01, 2007

So Classic

You gotta love this song!

4-2 and Rachel ripped her shoe

Today's game was awesome. Walker played keeper, so I got to play the field. I scored a nice high-angle shot within 2 minutes. Zach scored 2 and Rachel got the last one. She also ripped the shit out of her shoe. We have next weekend off, which is kinda a bummer.

Thursday, November 29, 2007

Snowmen and Jimmy Dean



His woman is "plump" yet he loves that sausage!

Transfer Emails to Gmail/Google Apps for Domain

A friend of mine had some email in her work account she wanted to back up because she was going to give her 2 weeks notice today. (it went well!) Not only was she trying to back up emails in an Exchange server through Outlook 2003, her new computer is a MacBook with Leopard. It's nice. But you can't just copy the emails over...

I found a couple articles, one suggesting I use Microsoft's Entourage (F no!) or install Thunderbird on her XP box, synch Outlook, then transfer over to Thunderbird in Leopard. Thunderbird choked trying to import Outlook's settings, so plan C: import to Gmail using IMAP. DUH!

With whatever client is supported that you want to use, just set up Gmail to accept IMAP in that client, then drag over the emails you want to move. So freaking simple! Gmail is smart about how you move things over too. Check out the IMAP actions in Gmail page to see why it's a great solution. Flagged messages get starred. Messages in folders get applied a label. Messages in subfolders get applied Folder1/Folder2/Folder3 labels.

I'd love to switch over to Google Apps at work, and will be using this technique to transfer email.

F-Spot... no need for Picasa on Linux

When switching over to run Ubuntu at home, I had a very short list of desktop applications I needed to use.
  • some multi-IM client (Pidgin is rad on both Windoze and Ubuntu)
  • some email client (Thunderbird, cross platform goodness)
  • some photo manager that could upload to Picasa
first 2 were no brainers, but the third...
So I installed Picasa for Linux but it I couldn't get it to upload to my Picasa Web account. Needless to say, I was disappointed. However, 2 sites were recommended for open source alternatives:
F-Spot was already installed on Ubuntu, so I fired it up, connected to my Picasa web account adn uploaded a test image to an existing gallery without a hitch.

It's nice when things just work!

Saturday, November 24, 2007

2-2 vs the Biscuits

I played keeper until Nathan scored his second goal, then we switched. Almost immediately they scored... and then a little later they scored again :-(

I wasn't doing much good out on the field anyway. Nick got tripped up by some girl that almost kicked Joe's ass (he was in the stands "cheering" no less)

werd.

Sunday, November 18, 2007

3-7, ouch!

We lost our game last night 3-7. Going in to half-time we were tied at 3. Nick "So Sweetly" Wheatly and Shaun "One Skinny Mother F*cker" Jackson each scored one (Shaun's first!) and then the opposing team had an own-goal. I played keeper and was not having that great of a game. About 5 min into the 2nd half I pulled my right quad pretty badly, so I was having a hard time moving around and kicking the ball. 3 of the next 4 goals I should have stopped. I just hope next Saturday someone else can play keeper so I can run with Nathan, err... Lucas.

Friday, November 16, 2007

Ghetto Fab House

Advertisement:


Reality: (at time of Google Street View capture)


Google Street View is my new favorite real estate tool!

Jesus Toy House

So a coworker as been looking around at houses, and she sent me a link, saying "You gotta look at the pics for this house!" I've been giving her a few tips, so I thought it was along those lines.

So I'm checking out the pics, and I see that maybe Jesus was involved in the carpentry since his pic is up on the wall.



The coworker had said to look next to the cat food. Mind you, this is a professional real estate site... or at least I thought it was! Is it reasonable to ask if the toy conveys?




And to top it off, they have a fantasy tiger poster ABOVE the shower in the bathroom with high ceilings (notice realtor's misspelling. Nice attention to detail!)

LOLCATZ

I don't know who came up with lolcatz originally, but it's quite the phenomenon.

Here are a few sights to watch. Good for a chuckle if not a nice big laugh.




Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Circa Survive + Guests

Last night Shandra and I went to see Circa Survive at the Hawthorne Theater. The first opener we saw was the Dear Hunter. The first song on their MySpace page isn't really what they sound like most of the time but it's still good. They were quite good. The next band, Ours... mixed review on this one. While each song individually sounded good, every song kinda sounded like the last, like it belonged in a battle scene in 300 or some vampire movie. The singer said it took them 5 years to make their last album. I figured you could write some different sounding songs in that time.

Circa Survive, as always, put on a great show. Last time I saw them they were opening for Thursday and they had a normal stage show. This time around they had confetti, bubbles, beachball-sized balloons, and these bigger balloons maybe 3ft in diameter. The crowd had a blast with all that stuff. We sat in the back on this bench and watched people trip over the corner of the raised platform the bench was on. At a point so many people had tripped it had become ridiculous.

I saw that Circa is touring with Coheed & Cambria, so hopefully they'll stop up this way.

Black Diamond's First Game, Season 3

It was a well-played game on both sides. We had pretty much everyone from the old crew besides Joyce (I'd rather be climbing it Utah too!) and it was quite a bit of fun. We lost 1-0, but that single goal was not a big deal. We all played quite well, including me. I was actually surprised because I have not run any since our last game. I managed to stay mostly unwinded. I had 2 left-footed shots on goal, and a couple more with the right. They were good shots too, so I'm psyched. Even though we played on Saturday, I'm still a little sore today (yeah... Wednesday!)

Next game, Saturday.

Friday, November 09, 2007

My First Hip-Hop Show?

Last night I met up with my friend Q to see some hip-hop at the Roseland. Del tha Funkee Homosapien was headlining, opened by a band I missed, Buku One, and Devin the Dude. Buku was pretty rad. He had some really good flow and entertaining lyrics. Devin the Dude? What a STROKE! It was an hour long set about bitches, pussy and weed. At one point the bass was up so loud you couldn't even hear the words and I had to cover my ears. I was pretty much just waiting for him and his posse to get off the stage. The blind rapper he had with him though was pretty good and cool to see.

Then came Del. I only stayed for a few songs, but he was tight. An incredible amount of talent and fun songs. Hopefully I can see him again and I won't be as tired.

Wednesday, November 07, 2007

Monday, November 05, 2007

Witness the Justice

Today was I was a witness in court for the District Attorney on that accident I saw in late February. It finally came to court after being set over once by the DA and 3 times by the defendant.

So I'm in the DA's office by 8:15am and Mike (the "victim") walks in, and the Assistant DA takes us into a small room and starts asking us questions like she will in court. It's all pretty straightforward.

We wait for a while outside the courtroom, and up walks Thad, a climber I know from the PRG who's also from the Midwest, climbed at Jackson Falls.

"What are you doing here?" - Thad
"I got in trouble. Actually I'm here to testify." - me
"You're a witness? Wait, for the Carlson-Ham case?" - Thad
He immediately turns around and walks away. I start laughing...

A bit of time passes as I wait to be called in. I see the cops being buddy-buddy with the DAs and the public defenders. Not so unlike what I've seen on TV.

I'm called in, sworn in (didn't have to say "so help me God" which might have been an issue) and the ADA starts her questions. About 1/2 way through her line of questions the judge notices the defendant's waiver of a trial bu jury had not been signed by the judge, presiding over what is now a bench trial. So they put the questions on hold for a minute to sort that out, and then the ADA continues.

When Thad started his cross:
"Mr. Cooke, is it true that you know me." - Thad
"Yes" - me
"This won't affect your testimony in any way, will it?" - Thad
"No, not at all" - me
"Wait wait, how do you two know each other Mr. Cooke?" - Judge You
"From the rock climbing gym." - me

And that was that. He only asked a few questions then I was excused and allowed to leave. I had a nice bike ride to work, getting there just after 11, so I had a long day ahead of me.

The experience was quite fun actually. I'd like to go sit in on some trials and see first-hand how the system works (or doesn't)

Saturday, November 03, 2007

Broughton on a Beautiful November Day

Today I went with Gary to Broughton Bluff, his old stomping ground and a local area I haven't spent too much time at. My mom, brother and his girlfriend were also going to come down so Nathan could climb and my mom could take photos. There were quite a few people out enjoying the sunny mid-50 degree weather.

After warming up on a little 10a, 5.9 toprope and 11b toprope we went down to the right side of the Bat Wall to do Superstition, 10d. It's a little tricky at the bottom, with some fun climbing then a slab traverse that took me quite a bit to work out.



Once I figured it out,





I moved up into this corner. Gary remembered there being a fixed pin right above my head for an easy clip.



It was actually a few feet back on a higher block I couldn't reach. I was pretty run out at this point, over to the side and above a slab. Plus, my mom was there and I didn't want to fall and get hurt. So I ended up starting that crux as a boulder problem by moving to the outside, then I could get up.



Once up I was relieved it was over and now will either bring a small cam with or just do that corner crux faster.

Nathan did really well toproping this route! He made it up to the slab traverse without falling or taking, which I was proud of. My mom got some really good shots of him with the shadow from a tree too.



Gary of course cruised the basalt trickery.



Check out the rest of the photos here.

After that episode I got on Dracula, 12a. SUPER physical but really cool. I think it's hard for the grade, and it's got some great moves on it, so hopefully I can get back soon and tick it.

Friday, November 02, 2007

Just To Make Your Hands Sweat

Not a new development but still amazing: Sonnie Trotter sending Cobra Crack in Squish.

Saturday, October 27, 2007

Douchebag

Bobby almost went out tonight as a conglomerate of these dudes, but he opted for pajamas with footies and underwear on the outside, Batman mask. Classic.

Thursday, October 25, 2007

Set the Highballs

Yesterday I set 2 highball boulder problems for the Portland Rock Gym's Fall Bouldering Preview: 60 some new problems, highballs and beer. 2 out of 3 isn't bad for me! I set a fun, easier v5 and a solid v6, both ending about 20 feet off the deck. I had a great time setting and climbing those bad-boys.

Wednesday, October 24, 2007

I'm a model you know what I mean

and I did my little turn in Keen shoes. Monday and Tuesday I was a model for the Fall/Winter '08 catalog for Keen, a shoe and bag company out here in Portland. Here's how the 2 days went.

Monday, I woke up beautiful. Like, whoa! I met Johanna a little after 7am to drive out to ZigZag to meet the other models, or as we are now known as: talent. Brodi, Richard and Alica were already out there freezing their asses off. It's a little cooler up in the sticks. Chris, the photographer and his assistant Charlie showed up shortly after with Tanya, the art director, and a few others. After intros we went to the first spot down by a river. The sun was amazing; sifting through the spider-like moss covered branches of this awesome tree. After some shots there we headed out to a trail for some wetter shots, then up to Timberline Lodge on Mt Hood for some snow shots. The sun was setting as we ended the day in warm weather on a fantastic mountain.

Tuesday morning I met the new set of talent at Yoga in the Pearl for our urban shots. We hung out in the Pearl district all day, which was nice because it was warm and sunny. We finished up the day at the Ace Hotel, sitting on these couches around a table, feet up for shoe and sock shots. We all had a great time.

Hopefully I can do some more modeling in the future. Never thought I'd say that... first, I gotta get paid!

Saturday, October 20, 2007

Hostile Territory - Silva Dominates!

Since the usual guys were at a concert tonight I went to the City Bar downtown for UFC 77. Main event was Rich Franklin vs Anderson Silva. Once again, Silva dominated the 2nd best fighter in the middleweight class. I'm pretty sure no one else has a chance.

Tim Sylvia vs Brandon Vera was a decent fight too. While my man Vera lost, he put up a good fight. It's hard to handle a guy 6'8" and 265lbs...

The guy I was sitting next to won 2 DVDs of SportFight, and he gave me one. Looks like I have more MMA to watch!

Thursday, October 18, 2007

All Your Source Are Belong To Us

This is one of the most amusing things I've seen on Slashdot in a very long time. Remember kids, don't look at the source!

Wednesday, October 17, 2007

Strange City Names

This gives me an idea... would be a nice Google Maps mashup.

Awesome Music Videos





So much fun to watch this fantastic song from back in the day.


A little something for the "fans"


While not an actual video, maybe my most favorite song ever.

Very Cool









I originally thought this was a CGI video or something from a game.




Painfully Hilarious



I used to cry laughing so hard in college for this one:








Sunday, October 14, 2007

Funny or Cool Videos

I have a lot of videos I've wanted to post but just never have. It's about time I clear out my bookmarks!








Live From Congress: The Skull Fucking Bill Of 2007

Tuesday, October 09, 2007

3 of the funniest "QVC" bloopers

1101-1860!

Google Maps Street View for Portland Just Released

What's up my house?

That thing is so much fun to play around with. Great for checking out neighborhoods when shopping for real estate too.

Monday, October 08, 2007

Another Great SWR Concert

Last night Shandra and I went to the first show of She Wants Revenge's tour for their new album, This is Forever.

The first opener, IO Echo, was straight from a mod movie. Very good drumbeats and interesting basslines. The singer was quite bashful when we bought the album but it was endearing.

I don't even know the name of the 2nd opener, but they weren't that good. Think the sounds of N.E.R.D. but the voice of some dude that thinks his voice is much cooler than it really is.

About half of SWR's songs were new, and they were all good. Usually it's strange to hear a lot of new music at a show, but it all being really likable it was easier for me to swallow. I can't wait for the album to drop tomorrow.

Monday, October 01, 2007

Birthday Weekend

Friday was my 26th birthday. Not quite a normal birthday for me, because my mom was 26 when she had me. So, it's VERY strange for me to think of having a child at this age. I think I'm too selfish with my time, but I might as well take advantage of it while I can.

Friday night Shandra and I went to Syun, a sushi restaurant out in Hillsboro. While I normally wouldn't drive out there, I heard the sushi was good. It was actually great. Really fresh, good times. Then we went to my mom's for cake.

Saturday my mom and I went to BodyWorlds which was really cool. The plastination was amazing. I was struck by the creativity of the different poses and how invaluable they were in showing the different parts of the body. On the way out OHSU has a little health survey/test thing they were doing, and I learned I'm 5'11.5", 156.5lbs with a 32" waist. But we also did a cholesterol test and, even though I ate eggs and some cheese for breakfast, I could probably use a little aerobic exercise.

Saturday night I went to the Portland Ice Fest at the Portland Rock Gym. There was a little dry-tooling competition and I entered, though I had never dry-tooled before. I got up to the 8th of 12 holds easily but my tool just popped off. Had it not I would have easily sent the prelim route and been in the finals.

Sunday I saw Superbad with Nathan and Christy. Very funny, very crude. Check out the website.

That pretty much sums it up. Fun weekend.

Thursday, September 27, 2007

Wednesday, September 26, 2007

Want to transfer big files? Use TransferBigFiles.com!

I started using TransferBigFiles.com a few weeks ago and I love it. I haven't tried DropZone yet, but I'm sure it works well. Such a great, free service.

Monday, September 24, 2007

Exposé, Flip3D, Switcher, TopDesk and DeskSpace... anything else?

I read quite a few blogs, and 2 of my favorite are Scott Hanselman's and Jeff Atwood's. They both kinda blog about the same stuff, ranging from cool technologies and best practices to developer tips and Microsoft stuff. Each one posted recently about window navigation in Vista.

Scott loves Otaku's DeskSpace, and I do agree it looks pretty cool. It basically gives you the Beryl/Compiz Fusion cube desktop space on Vista. Browsing a little more on Otaku's site brought me to TopDesk, a Exposé/Flip3D window navigator for Vista and down to XP. I'm not sure if Scott also loves TopDesk... but I know Jeff doesn't.

In a recent post, Jeff goes into quite a few reasons why Flip3D isn't any good. He recommends Switcher, a free Exposé-like window navigator that is really quite sweet. I've been using it at work and I get that squishy "mac" feeling that I thought I'd never have on a Vista box. The best part: Switcher is free. I can't say I'd be willing for fork over the $20 for DeskSpace when Switcher and Flip3D do the job well enough. I guess if I were running Vista Home Basic (eww) or even XP, maybe... but probably not. Easy enough to go with what's free.

I'll be playing around with Compiz in Ubuntu 7.10 in the next few months. I have other things I'd like to finish before I start playing around with all that stuff...

Saturday, September 22, 2007

Rat Cave... SICK

So, the Rat Cave is pretty sweet. I sent the "warm-up" 12a on my 3rd try, and I'll be working the extension for the 12b. It was a lot of fun to hang with Gary and the others, and nice to see some people that are really trying to push it. Can't wait to get back. I might have a few pics to upload when I get home.

Friday, September 21, 2007

Pizza and Pain Pumps

I worked too much, and yet not enough. Tonight was worth it. I went to dinner with Shandra, her brother and his wife Heather, and two kids Anna (Grace) and Jack. Both really cute kids. After getting home I got to take Bobby's pain pump out. I should have gone into the medical field... He had his ACL surgery on Wed and seems to be doing ok so far.



Wednesday, September 19, 2007

Popes and a gnarly catch!

My old climbing partner Popes has been out in Colorado for a few years now, and is still playing Ultimate. Here's a vid of him making a sweet catch to score.

Bill Gates isn't that rich

I'm not kidding. This slider by Forbes is really quite interesting. It's amazing to think these tycoons were leaps and bounds richer in their day than Bill and Warren are today.

I'm just leaving work, but it's been a good day.

Work's been nuts. It's 2:30am and I'm not even done. But, I did go bouldering at the PRG today and with Gary and we worked on a v7. I did it too. I'm very happy, as it's my first v7 at the PRG, and they always seem to grade pretty hard. I might be going out to the Rat Cave on Saturday. I get to get shut down on the 12a warm-up!

Thursday, September 13, 2007

I done climbed well tonight

I probably should have stayed at work, but Brent, Joe, Zach and Jaime were all meeting at the Circuit, and that's just too hard to pass up. I had a very good night, flashing several v4s, 5s, and even two 6s. I worked on an 8, that maybe, if I really tried hard, could go. Jaime, Brent, Joe and I went out afterwards and had some dinner, which was hella fun too. Now, to bed. A good night!

PS:
Wanna hear something crazy? I got stung by a yellowjacket behind my left ear today. Total crap.

Wednesday, September 12, 2007

Subscribe to YouTube RSS Feeds

I was a disappointed when I couldn't find an easy way to subscribe to YouTube feeds, such as the Deftones videos. A little googling and I found this article on googletutor. When I tried adding the feed to Google Reader it just spun, so (in Firefox of course) I put the feed url into the location bar, and voila! I was prompted to subscribe with Reader, and all's good.

Transcode FLV Online

Last week I blogged about DownloadHelper and I really like it. Surfing around on YouTube tonight, I saw a comment that said you can save the audio from a YouTube video. How? vixy.net

You can either give it a url to a YouTube movie, or an url to a flv file and it'll transcode it to AVI for Windows (DivX + MP3), MOV for Mac (MPEG4 + MP3), MP4 for iPod/PSP (MPEG4 + AAC), 3GP for Mobile (MPEG4 + AAC), MP3 (audio only). I tested it out and it was surprisingly fast to transcode, but a little slow (80Kb/sec or so) to download, not that that's horrible. I'd assume the server is in Japan.

Anyway, try it out. Very cool.

Saturday, September 08, 2007

New She Wants Revenge CD coming out October 9th

Go get it.
Video for the new single...

Firefox Extension: DownloadHelper

I saw an article on Wired about saving videos to your hard drive from sites like YouTube. Best way for me is to use DownloadHelper, which automatically recognizes media content it can download. Very cool.

New Bouldering Video Site

The vids aren't that great, but it's still some pr0n to get you going.
boulderingmedia.com

Thursday, September 06, 2007

ha$hy = so money

I've wanted to do a little javascript page that'll auto-generate different hashes on the fly. So, here's ha$hy, like version 0.1 at most.

Wednesday, September 05, 2007

WiFi iPod = sexy

The new iPod is really nice looking. I'll have to go check it out, but I still think I'd rather have the iPhone instead.

Tuesday, September 04, 2007

Goodbye Outlook, Hello Thunderbird

This morning at work I finally got fed up with the extreme lack of adequate performance with Outlook 2007. I use IMAP and to look through my emails (even if some had already been read) was a chore. Load times per email as small as 4Kb could be 5 seconds. That's FOREVER. So, I decided to give Thunderbird another try. I had recommended it to one of our clients, Class Afloat, some time ago as a free alternative. But since I ran Office, I continued using Outlook. No more. I hope to even get off Thunderbird one day and go all Google Apps. Scott Hanselman's guide is great. His podcast on the subject was interesting too.

Some Links

Tieton, not Squish

For Labor Day weekend this year Shandra and I were going to go to Squamish, but decided to head out to Tieton instead. Worked out better since there was less driving, free camping, and good company.

Saturday we climbed at Deadheads wall at Lava Point. The routes there were really fun, several being very classic.

Sunday we hit Wildcat/Honeycomb Wall. Everyone else was on some tenuous looking 11a that would have spit me off and just frustrated me. So, with nothing to warm up on, I got on a SUPER classic 11c called Land Down Under. You can see Johanna and Joe on it in the photos.

Monday consisted of an early morning but late start. We went down to the Dream Wall and did a few 10s with slightly sketchy rock. Then Scott talked me into getting on this 11a. Luckily I flashed it, because it's a bad fall if you don't clip that first bolt! You can see Scott on the first few moves in the cave.

Just a few pics
, hopefully more when Shandra gets hers online.

Thursday, August 30, 2007

Teen Driver Gets Arrested for 140mph Video on YouTube

For some reason, I kinda doubt it. 140mph in a Ford Escort? I call BULLSHIT!

Monday, August 27, 2007

Fun Google Links

While looking at the great Google Cheat Sheet, I saw some fun links I thought I'd share:
it's nice to see such a big company have a real personality and sense of humor.

Friday, August 24, 2007

ControlToValidate can work with Custom Controls

Today I was trying to build a composite user control that is a basic text box with validators built in. All I wanted was a TextBox that could know what to set for a RegularExpressionValidator and a RequiredFieldValidator.

When I went to add a CompareValidator I ran into a problem... I couldn't specify my composite control as the ControlToCompare or the ControlToValidate. I got this error: "ControlToValidate property of CustomCalidator is Incorrect." So I went lookin' on Google and came up with a bunch of results that didn't actually help.

MSDN suggests you use the ValidationPropertyAttribute, but I couldn't get it to work. Yuri's post on the bottom of this page was REALLY close to being correct for asp.net 2.0 in that he used cbStates:Text. It's been quite a long time since I've used asp.net 1.1, and maybe ids were delimited with colons back then. But now, it's the $ sign. I didn't think to try it, but Brian gave it a whirl and it worked.

He explained to me that the page the CompareValidator sits on only knows of its child controls. So if you look at the unique id of the textbox you want to validate, it starts way higher: ctl100$BodyContent$Email$TextBoxField. The page can't figure out the relative "path", so you need to strip off ctl100$BodyContent$...$...$... I guess it's because the page doesn't implement INamingContainer.

Click to view code

Dont' be worried about the id not being recognized correctly. Because we always have TextBoxField inside the composite control, Password$TextBoxControl will always be valid.

Hope this helps!

Monday, August 13, 2007

Madrone is Delicious!

Yesterday Shandra and I went out to Madrone for a few hours. I was surprised there were only 3 other people there. It was nice and cool and good texture. We did a few warm up routes, then I got my ass handed to me on a 12a called Talk, Talk, Talk (or at least I'm pretty sure that's the route.) The start is really damn hard and technical, with the crux basically being the first 2 bolts. I stick clipped the first, fell a few times on it, then ended up stick clipping the 2nd. First time I've ever had to do that! After the 3rd bolt there's about 20 feet of climbing on moss covered rock, which luckily I didn't pitch from.

On our way out, we picked fresh blackberries. I think we got close to 2 Nalgene bottles full. They are so damn good! Had a bunch in my cereal this morning and they were tasty!

Saturday, August 11, 2007

Moonstone and Lost Rocks Pics

I got all of them from Nathan, and here are a few more.
Moonstone
Lost Rocks

Thursday, August 09, 2007

NorCal Bouldering - Moostone and Lost Rocks

On our way back from Reggae Nathan and I stopped at Moonstone Beach, outside of Arcata. While there wasn't a lot of bouldering, it was really quite fun. Check the photos.

Lost Rocks was SICK. You can view the photos here. I kinda wish we hadn't even gone to Moonstone and just went straight to Lost Rocks. There were 2 other people bouldering, and that's all I saw. I guess the boulders just keep going on down the beach though. I can't wait to go back. Great (free) camping at Flint Ridge.

I even fell from one move higher than on this pic and landed in the soft sand with no pad. So freakin' cool!

Reggae Rising 2007!!!

This last weekend was spent outside Garberville, CA at Benbow State Rec Area and Dimmick Ranch, where we saw three days of some great reggae.

Friday
Our first night ended with Heavyweight Dub Champion coming on at 12:30am. They were on fire (pun not intended because they did actually have fire dancers...) The music was really tight, and Apostle the MC was on. The only thing that was a little strange was the lecture before they started by some spiritual elder, who scolded the crowd because we wouldn't listen to her. Good luck getting several thousand drunk and high people to do anything.

Saturday
Nathan and I chilled in the river while the others played poker (Polina won!) then we hit the venue for Robbie & Sly and the closer, Ziggy Marley. I fell asleep a few times because I was tired, but also because it was really cold, and sleeping seemed like the easiest way to warm up.

Sunday
Another day at the river followed up with the closing acts of the festival, Stephen and Damian Marley. Both put on great sets, and Nathan, Andy and I were lucky to be up pretty close and center. Nathan is sorting through his pics now and I'll link to them soon.

All in all it was a really fun time. We headed to Arcata, then to Klamath for some bouldering, which is coming up next...

Thursday, August 02, 2007

Bacon Salt

Yes, I said it. Bacon Salt. Though I just found out about it a few minutes ago, I'm placing an order. I wish I had it for my trip down to Reggae Rising... oh well. It'll be a nice thing to come home to!

"And none of that would have been possible without the help of Lefkow’s three-year-old, Dean. The family recorded a video of the boy hitting a T-ball into his dad’s face. That video was picked in a random drawing from America’s Funniest Home Videos, winning $5,000."...
"The big spice companies, they come out with something, they’ve got a $20 to $30 million marketing budget behind it. We’ve got 5,000 bucks from America’s Funniest Home Videos."

Great read!

Update: I'm sad.
  • Subtotal: $4.49
  • Shipping and Handling: $5.00
  • Subtotal With Shipping: $9.49 USD
yeah, I'll wait.

Tuesday, July 17, 2007

Shandra's Strawberry Rhubarb Pie

Like I said the other day, I didn't get to try any of Shandra's pie at Joe and Rachel's party. Seemed like it was pretty tasty, as everyone wanted a piece, but only a select few got some. Lucky for me, she made another one, just for me. And let me say, it's freakin' delicious. I already shared some with Carley and Garry, so all you others... tough shit!

Monday, July 16, 2007

Weekend of Climbing!

Not really. I went to Madrone with Joe and Micah, meeting Scooter, Rachel and her friend Rob, where I did 2 routes, calling it a day. We did take a dip at Carver, and luckily didn't get hassled by any henchmen. Later I went to Gary's (owner of PRG) for a bbq. He has a really nice house with a great back yard. Nice to chill with good people.

Yesterday I went to Beacon with Karen and Joyce. We met Vince there, where he and I did 4 pitches. I lead Little Wind (5.9) and he lead the first pitch of Jill's Thrill (5.9 also). Then I lead the approach pitch (not sure of the name or grade, but it was a little spicy in the crux section) and Vince lead Blood, Sweat and Smears. It was an incredible lead. I'm pretty sure I would have taken a decent trad fall had I tried.

Bummer part of the day (and today too) is that something is going on with my back. I'm not sure if I'm slightly pinching a nerve above my right leg or what, but it didn't feel good walking to or from the cliff yesterday. I stretched last night but it didn't help a lot. Laying on the floor did though, and I did crack it once. I need to get back to yoga!

Saturday, July 14, 2007

Friday the 13th Was Very Tasty

Joe made grilled vegan sushi (with Spam, go figure!) ,Hanmi made ribs with love sauce, Rachel made phat steaks, Scott had elk burgers, Scooter chicken, and I did a leg of lamb. It was a great way to finish off the week, which wasn't one of the best.

Work hasn't been fun. I've been trying to get psyched, but it's just not happening. We'll see.

Update: Shandra said she wanted me to say something about her pie. I didn't even get any, but here it is: Shandra, your pie looked delicious. I'm sure it was. Can't wait to ACTUALLY try some.

Sunday, July 08, 2007

First Beacon Trip of '07

Went with Joe, Karen and Joyce. Joe and I decided to get on Fall Guy, a 10d as our first climb. First of all, grades are sandbagged, or WAY sandbagged out at Beacon. Jaime was right: 10d at Beacon is harder than 11a. Fair real grade on Fall Guy? 11a/b. Pretty cool climb though. Joe took a few times but hung the draws, then I did it. Jim Opdike was psyched when I told him I did it first try, so hopefully it'll get back to the first ascentionist.

After doing another route (Spring something or other) Jaime, Joe and I soloed the SE Corner. It's a 5 or 6 pitch route, 5.6 at the hardest (so, more like 5.7/8) and it was awesome. It felt amazing to be that high, having to keep my cool and just go. I never thought of falling, because it wasn't like the climbing I usually do. Usually, falling is ok. Not so much this time. Jaime tries to solo it 100 times a year. I think last year he made it to 90. I'm good for now!

Saturday, July 07, 2007

Deftones, Part 2

After driving all the way to Packwood Washington to pick up Karen, Joyce and Lola (Karen's car broke down, 20 miles from their destination!) I made it back in time for the Deftones. I would have liked to see the Fall of Troy, but missing Dir en Grey was a-ok with me.

The crowd wasn't as cool tonight. I may have been a bit tired, but it was still an awesome show. I was worried that this might be the last Deftones show I get to see. Seems kinda like a farewell tour, playing back-to-back nights in the same town, but I hope not!

Set List

Friday, July 06, 2007

Deftones, Part 1

Amazing.
Tonight was night 1 of 2 for the Deftones here in Portland. Opening bands were good and bad. the Fall of Troy was really good. Progressive like Coheed, fucking metal like Pantera. Dir en Grey, I could have done without. Pretty much a sonic maelstrom. Not pleasant, not that good.

Then, the Deftones. As always, they put on an amazing show. It was fun to go into the pit, where I lost my shoe only once. My throat feels pretty much gone from singing along, and I think I only got hit in the face once. Feels good though. Can't wait for tomorrow night!

Set List

Wednesday, July 04, 2007

Some Notes

  1. Mango Nectarines are delicious. New Seasons has them now. Go. Now.
  2. This is the best toilet seat ever. If only I could find a demo.
  3. I just got a new bike! Gary Fisher Cronus. Sooooooooo sweet.
  4. I'm at work :-(
  5. I'm working on WSS 3.0 :`-( = me crying.
  6. Bobby's friend Dev is in town!

Friday, June 29, 2007

Sunday, June 24, 2007

You Shouldn't Drill Holes Through Water Lines

Though I knew this, I still did it, by accident.
I was attaching earthquake straps to my hot water heater.



After getting the top strap attached, I went to pre-drill for the bottom strap. Lucky me, I hit a stud! Lucky me, I also hit a high pressure line that feeds the rest of my house.

After pulling off the drywall and chiseling the stud, this is what it looked like:



I had read "How to Repair Plumbing Pipes" so I measured the pipe (gotta think measure the inside diameter)



and ran to Home Depot to get a "C" clamp.



The one piece of rubber didn't fit the 1/2" clamp, so I stuck both pieces in there and clamped it down.



I turned the water back on, and low and behold... it leaked.



While it's not hard to solder, or so I've been told, I don't have the tools, nor would I want to mess it up any more. Early tomorrow morning I'll call the plumbers and see what I can arrange.

Now, time to hit 24 Hour Fitness for a shower.

UPDATE 6/25:
Fixed before I even went to work this morning!

Sunday, June 17, 2007

I got away Scott Free

Actually, I got Scott Free, a 12b at Madrone. I was really pretty surprised because I had only been on it once before, last year. First burn today got me to the crux, I figured out the beta and hit the dyno first try. After resting a bit (and some mental prep) I sent the route 2nd try. You can see the pics from today.

Saturday, June 16, 2007

UFC 72: Japan Should Fight

Hooters
Good Fights
Main Event - Rich Franklin vs Yushin Okami
Franklin won the first 2 rounds because Okami didn't DO ANYTHING. 3rd round, Okami starts fighting, takes Franklin down, attempts a WICKED shoulder lock, loses the fight. Okami could have fought a much better fight.

Wednesday, June 13, 2007

Tara's pics from Leavenworth



Check out the full-sized pics here.

Joe only got (at most) 6 marshmallows, while I rocked 10. He may be good looking, but I'm way better at Chubby Bunny.

Tuesday, June 12, 2007

I feel like I may be climbing again

With my recent send of 12a outside and some good training inside, I decided to start climbing inside again, since I might be too busy over the weekends coming up.

Though I got a late start, today I managed to flash a few v4s, a v5, and I pulled off a stout v6. My left forearm felt kinda tight, so I'll give it a few days and see how it goes. Hopefully I can get outside to Madrone this weekend.

Sunday, June 10, 2007

I'll never think of the Star Spangled Banner in the same way

Karen and I watched ShortBus tonight. It was a really fantastic movie. While having its porn-ish moments (lots of them really) it was a candid look at different types of relationships and how we as sexual creatures interact with each other. Not for the squeamish at all, but if you can stand orgies and gay sex scenes, I'd highly recommend it.

I trimmed my bushes

Nothing dirty like CERTAIN people might think...

Today was my first day doing some serious yard work. I had some overgrown bushes that needed trimming and some weeds that needed whacking, some trees that needed pruning, and bush branches that needed... damn, lost the "ing" thing. Well, a few branches needed to be tied back so they could grow straight. Anyway, felt good to get out in the yard and clean up.

Ride Your Bike Naked

Last night was the World Naked Bike Ride here in Portland. There were at least a thousand riders flooding the streets of Portland, bearing all for awareness of the oil problem, and some bicycle safety too. Karen and I met up with some friends from the climbing gym and rode all around town. Lots of guys, lots of girls, little to no clothing. Best ride I've had in years! I was bummed that I missed it last year, and I'm glad I didn't miss it this year!

Saturday, June 09, 2007

I finally hung out at a state school

and it was actually very nice. I went down to Corvallis last night to see Nathan at OSU. After sitting in an hour of traffic, I got down and we had dinner. We then went over to the athletic center to boulder but the whole damn thing was reserved or something, so we met up with some kids and played soccer for a while. It was quite a fun time.

This morning we went to breakfast on campus, where the scrambled eggs were much better than the ones I didn't eat at WU. We killed time by shopping at Ross and loading up my van with Nathan's extra stuff. At 5 we went bouldering, where I encountered some of the most poorly graded problems ever. Everything was at least a grade harder than graded, and not that well set. No biggie, still had fun.

We ate some dinner then I drove back, making much better time than going down. I was really happy I made it down before the school year ended. I'll have to go down more next year. I really liked the campus and how accessible things were after hours.

Thursday, June 07, 2007

Monday, June 04, 2007

The Movies I Watched Last Week

I forgot to write about them.
Thursday I saw Pan's Labyrinth, which was very good, and very crazy. The visuals were really cool. One character reminded me of something that would be in a tool video. While I wasn't sure I had enough energy to read subtitles, I enjoyed the movie a lot.

Saturday I watched 2 slightly disturbing movies... the former more than the latter.
Jesus Camp was a scary look at bible camps that use fear to create little Christian warriors. It'll leave a mark.

I'm a Sex Addict was strange and amusing. The main character seemed to do all the wrong things in a most frustrating way, yet I hoped he would actually get better. Another film worth watching, once.

Sunday, June 03, 2007

Week's Recap

Let's see...
  1. Had a review at work. Not sure how productive it was. Not sure how I feel right now about work.
  2. Plumber fixed my water lines for my washer and dryer. Now, if only I had a washer and dryer...
  3. Went to my first Last Thursday and had a blast! Way cooler than First Thursday
  4. Saw mewithoutYou Friday with Esther. Really cool band, despite being Christian. Normally this doesn't bother me, but their music is driven by Christian themes. Not my favorite, but still good music.
  5. Had a great talk with Karen about our tiff last week and our friendship in general. I hadn't realized that it's been years since I've had this kind of talk with a female friend. Living with Bobby has always been really easy, so I've just gotten used to getting over things really quickly. It didn't register that other people might need more from me, so it was refreshing to hear that
  6. Saturday Neff and I went to Ozone. Warmed up on 2 1os then I fired the Crumbling, 12a. Felt very good. Felt like I was actually climbing again.
  7. Today I slept in, had a soccer game, where we won 5-2 (I scored!!!) then chilled at a bbq. Damn good times.

Tuesday, May 29, 2007

Leavenworth

I think Kiki sums up the first day pretty well.

Sunday was good for me too. I went up to Rattlesnake Wall with Joe, enjoying a shitty trail up to a good wall. Though Joe had left the book in the van, we did a few moderate routes, then I bailed to go boulder.

Hitting up the Forestlands with Mateo and Tara was a blast. We got on some really fun problems, and Tara (hopefully) took some good pics.

It got cold Sunday night so we headed back to the campsite early. Long story short, I invited to big, burly biker dudes to camp in our campsite, since they were having a hard time finding a place to pitch their tent. I just offered. I didn't think to ask everyone else, and I didn't think to go back with them to the campsite. I guess I wasn't thinking at all. When I got back, EVERYONE was pretty pissed at me, which I could understand. Luckily the guys ended up being cool.

We just bouldered at the Fridge boulder Monday then drove back to PDX. It was a much quicker drive back. Overall it was a good trip. Now that I know the area it'll be easier next time to get more climbing in.

Thursday, May 24, 2007

Wednesday, May 23, 2007

Silver Surfer Is So Damn Cool

Fine, I'm a nerd. Whatever. I still read comic books. Go ahead, chuckle. All I know is that I'm really excited to see Fantastic Four: Rise of the Silver Surfer. I'll even give the game a chance! Not on a PC though... well, maybe, if it's first person. Anyway, chut up!



I need to see this too.

Punctuation Means More Than You Think

Ze Frank has a nice little video tutorial on coding emails with punctuation. How many emails would I re-write using this technique? Probably a lot.

Sunday, May 20, 2007

RailsConf '07 - Sunday Sessions

Keynote: The Rails Way
Jamis Buck and Michael Koziarski of therailsway.com gave a nice talk this morning on how things can be done right in Rails. Maybe if I had more experience with Rails I would have taken more away. I just need to remember that Rails does nice things, and I should use them.

Session: Choose Your Battles and LetIt::REST
Hampton Catlint on HAML fame gave a cool talk on a plugin he's developed called make_resourceful.

Session: Deploying Rails on Windows
Not that you should. No one should. However, I did take away some good advice on load balancing and how easy it is to set up.

Keynote: Dave Thomas
Actually, I was so out of it I spaced the start time of this session and only caught the last 15 minutes. It's ok though, I was pretty done at that point.

RailsConf '07 - Saturday Sessions

Session: Exploring Virtual Clusters for Rails Development and Deployment
This talk was mainly on why you should use virtual machines for pretty much everything you do. For those that aren't familiar with virtual machines, they are computers, just like the one you are using, except they run inside another computer. So, if I'm using Windows Vista (no flamewars please) I could use a vm server to run Windows XP, a flavor of Linux or Unix, or even another Windows Vista, like an application.
While this is nothing new, here are a few reasons to use VMs:
  • Consolidation - you can run many servers on a single hardware box
  • Isolation - if one of the vms has a problem, it's easy enough to shut it down and boot it back up, or use a backup and go from there.
  • Replication
    • You can easily create vms from existing hardware configurations and stick them up on any available vm server.
    • Your deployment will be standardized, so once you get a VM setup, it's copy and paste for new servers.
    • VM provisioning can be automated. So, if you need a new server because your site is getting slammed, just boot them up.
  • Utilization
    • Though there may be a slight (3-5% is what I've heard) for running VMs, you'll be utilizing much more of your CPU, which goes largely unused most of the time.
    • You'll get to reclaim unused memory and disk space.
    • You paid for your hardware, might as well use it to its fullest extent!
  • Resource Allocation
    • You can "grow and shrink" your servers on demand. Need more disk space on your database server? Just add some (as long as there's free disk space on the physical server)
    • "Load Balanced" servers on Hardware - If you need to transfer a VM from one physical machine to another, it can be done on the fly. Everything, including the in-memory data, will be transfered, and your customers won't even know. No downtime!
    • Guaranteed vs Burstable Resources - You can guarantee resources to the VM, and if a VM needs more resources, those resources can be allocated.
Session: The Business of Rails
This session was a panel of professionals that went into business for themselves, solely related to Rails. Robby Russell of Portland's Planet Argon was present, as was the founder of PeepCode. The gist was to strike out on your own and have a plan, even if it's not the best. It's better than nothing!

Break: Pioneer Square
I couldn't take being inside anymore, so I took the Max over to Pioneer Square and hung out at Outside magazine's 30th birthday. The guys from Climbaxe and PRG were there manning the portable climbing wall. It was nice to get out in the sun and rest the eyes.

Highlight of the day was the Extra Action Marching Band. Really cool concept, and the girls were nice to look at. The performance I saw (slightly NWS) was PG-13 bordering on R, while the performance at Dante's later in the evening was I'm sure R bordering on X. I bet it was a damn good show.

Friday, May 18, 2007

RailsConf '07 - Friday Sessions

Session: Building Community Focused Apps with Rails
This session was mainly on how to structure a project from the ground up, looking at Cork'd and stepping through the process the Cork'd developers used.

Session: Scale Rails Without Bounds on Amazon EC2
This was a very interesting talk on how to use Amazon's EC2 service to horizontally scale your app servers within minutes using a product called RightScale. I thought this might be a great server-side solution for Terra IMS's possible need for lots of computers for data processing geo-location information into usable web geo-location information.

Session: Build and Working with Static Sites in Ruby on Rails
Um, I didn't pay attention.

Session: Lessons from the Real World
Dirk from RackSpace gave a lot of good tips on things to avoid when developing Rails apps. The story on how his team's first Rails app helped to reunite families in San Antonio that had been evacuated from New Orleans after Hurricane Katrina showed how Rails could make a real difference in a very short time.

Session: Spam I have Known
This was an enjoyable session on battling wiki spam. While no final solution will ever work for all wiki spam, the few that were suggested (blacklist web service, captchas, etc) were interesting to think about.

Keynote: "Smalltalk: Ruby from the Future"
Avi Bryant's talk on how Ruby and Smalltalk were essentially the same language was very informational and I thought very valuable for the Ruby and the Rails communities. Smalltalk seems to have solved many of the performance issues that stalk Ruby, and hopefully the Ruby and Smalltalk communities can work together to push Ruby to the next level.

Keynote: "Acceleration Anxiety"
Ze Frank is freaking hilarious. Like standup comedy funny. Like, I was crying funny. He's a "Content Producer", whatever that means. I've seen his site before now that I look at it again. I recommend you look through the site, and I'll see if I can find his video.

RailsConf '07 - Day 1

Well, day one has been going well at RailsConf '07. I got here a little late, missing the first 15 min welcome session and probably the first half of DHH's keynote on Rails 2.0 features. What I did catch was how easy it would be to utilize the features of REST to get a lot of stuff "for free". Right now my dad's site is not using REST, but I'll be making the switch.

I'll post a little on my sessions...

Wednesday, May 16, 2007

The Bravery v4.0

Pretty sure this was the 4th time I've seen the Bravery. Regardless, it was a great show tonight. The Photo Atlas opened first, who put on a great set. Described on the radio last week as what the child of At the Drive-In and Gang of Four would sound like, I was an instant fan.

We missed the 2nd opener because we were hungry and felt like bbq, but got back in time for the Bravery. I'm pretty sure the whole band was drunk, but they still managed to put on a good show.

Craziest thing was seeing some dude attack another guy and almost beat the shit out of him. Not sure why. Too much testosterone maybe?

Monday, May 14, 2007

Madrone on a Sunday is really pretty nice

Ozone yesterday was much better than Ozone a few weeks ago. After warming up on a few new routes, I went down at got on The Crumbling, 12a sport route that has pre-hung draws. Not sure if I'd even make it to the top, I took twice, putting in a good effort. It's actually got me psyched to go back. And, it's nice having the drive to send hard again. It's been a few years...

Today I went to Madrone. I warmed up on 2 routes I had done before, then went down to do Where the Wild Things Roam, 11d onsight (supposedly), 11b otherwise. I did it first try today (having tried it once a few weeks ago) and ended up doing it again as my last climb. It's nice to have something like that wired.

I'm starting to feel like I did before I left St. Louis, like I can actually climb. My hand feels better, my right shoulder isn't bothering me too much. This year looks to be a great one. Though I have the RailsConf all next weekend, I feel good about the Memorial Day weekend trip up to Leavenworth.

UPDATE: Pics have been posted. Thanks mom!

Sunday, May 06, 2007

I love bacon.. real bad

I went to Trout Creek this weekend for some crack climbing. Yes, me. I went crack climbing. And it was fun, and it was beautiful, and I'll go back. My first attempt at tape gloves didn't work too well, but it'll happen. Looks like I'll need some better crack climbing shoes too. And a rope. Time to finally buy some gear!

Here are the pics of Trout Creek. It was about an hour hike up there, but not as bad as I'd heard.

I got on Gold Rush, a 10a crack, and while it was just a little bigger than hands, I did it. Felt good too, since I don't have much experience on cracks. 2nd route was a double crack called Suzuki, 11a or so. Took me a few tries to get off the ground, but once I did I managed to get to the top. Last route of the day was JR Tokin', a 10b/c (shit was HARD} crack with a definite crux that was hellish. None of us actually dit it clean. Well, Micah did on his 2nd try. It'd be a nice one to get wired but it'll take some time. Here's the start of his fall sequence his first try.

Sunday, April 29, 2007

What a weekend!

Friday, early evening, 3-2 loss at soccer.

Friday, late evening, send off party for Bob. LOTS of desserts.

Saturday, great climbing at Madrone. I'd say this place is the gem of outdoor climbing in/around Portland. I got on 6 routes, and all 6 were classic. Good movement, good gear, good rock. I can't wait to go back.

Saturday night, a "little" get-together at Montage for Karen's birthday. Gellato followed, as did a solid 37 minutes of laughing so hard my face cramped. Joe is funny. Even when he's trying not to be.

Today, Ozone. While not as good as Madrone, it still had some nice routes. Got kinda crowded though.

Now I take a shower and go to sleep.

Thursday, April 26, 2007

Automatic code highlighting on the web

Ok, quickly before I go to bed.

I've seen some code highlighters on the web before. The one I use in this blog is adapted from what I saw on the Prototype Carousel page, which is based on Star-Light.

To get them to work with Blogger, I had to link the scripts like on Carousel, but I would MUCH PREFER to use Star-Light as is.

I will be adapting the T-SQL Star-Light styles into the other way for an upcoming SQL Server 2005 Ad-Hoc Report Model/Dynamic Query PIVOT goodness post.

Stay tuned!

UPDATE: I switched back to Code_Highlighter from the Carousel page because it works in Firefox without having to reload the iframe, and it just works in IE7)

Wednesday, April 25, 2007

Transparent PNG Rollovers in IE6, IE7 and Firefox

I haven't posted anything remotely technical in a while, but I thought this would be a good one.

I'm working on chopping a comp to html at work, and while the design looks nice, it requires a few transparent PNGs. Of course Firefox renders them correctly, as does IE7. Besides the tabs, I'd say that's the biggest improvement in IE from 6 to 7. IE 5.5+ pretty much doesn't work.

I've tried just about every method/fix/hack to get transparent PNGs to show up correctly in IE6. I've tried applying just the filter, using a behavior and having javascript fix all my images but none worked. Well, the last one worked, but only when applied to individual images. Iterating through all the images wasn't really viable, and the defer attribute of the script tag didn't work.

Though I just found this article on mouseovers, I came up with a cute little fix.

Click to view code

If I load each image and immediately hide the hover, the rollover will work by switching the visibility. Using prototype it's trivial to toggle both.

And I do understand this isn't the best way to do it. But hey, if I could have gotten ANY of the other's to work... I would have used them.

Sunday, April 22, 2007

the last week

It seems like I use my blog as more of a personal journal that I may or may not look back on in the future. I guess that's why I seem to post the same stuff over and over... climbing, music, UFC and soccer. So, here we go!

In the last 8 days I've gone to 4 concerts. Friday night was Heavyweight Dub Champion, AFTER my 11:15pm soccer game. We lost the soccer game 4-2, but the concert was a win.

Last night was UFC 70 in Manchester, England. The biggest upset I've seen since Serra beat GSP was when Gonzaga kicked Cro Cop upside the head with 9 seconds left in the first round, knocking Cro Cop OUT. It was hella crazy.

Today some friends went to Club Sport in Tigard to try out a new climbing gym. It was pretty nice. They have a nicely overhanging wall that I would love to get on all the time. Even though they have 50% off a 5-punch pass I probably won't go back for a bit. Cool nonetheless.

Thursday, April 19, 2007

the Expanses of VAST

I just got back from the VAST concert and I had a great time. I was trying to remember when I first started listening to them, and I think it was 1998 when I heard their single, Touched. I highly recommend downloading their albums. One thing I really like about the band is their willingness to put their music online at a very reasonable price.

If you only get one album, get the self-titled one.

Tuesday, April 17, 2007

Windows Media Player plugin for Firefox

Go get it!

You know, it's about damn time Microsoft released this plugin. Now I can watch CNN videos without having to open up IE. My world is getting brighter!

Sunday, April 15, 2007

Back to Back Soccer Games Are Wicked Fun

Black Diamonds played a good game against Casey Eyeball (what a charming name!) and we tied 2-2. Zach "Le Tigre" Fleischer scored our two goals. I was tired as hell and didn't run as hard as I would have liked. Not bad for missing a lot of players.

I was asked to play keeper for the next game that day, which I gladly obliged. While I let 4 go by me, we tied in the last minute. I learned I need to come out at the ball more. No need to sit there and give them a stationary object to shoot around. Though I'm sorta quick, I'm not always quick enough to stop their shots. Moving out should help prevent goals, or at least I think...