Friday, September 29, 2006

It's my party and I'll send if I want to

The bouldering gym has a DJ come in Friday nights. It's a nice was to start off the weekend. So, it being the day after my birthday, I asked some people to come climb.

Joe, Joe, Karen, Christine, Jane, Bob, Andreas, Brent and Johanna all made it down. We had quite a bit of fun. Mickey was there too. It had been a while since I had seen that character.

After I send my first v7 (yeah, I know, plastic... and I don't think it was a real v7, so I'm not really counting it) we went to the pool hall and chilled for a while. For some reason I suck it up at Uptown Billiards. Not sure why. Alas, it was fun.

Glad everyone could make it out. I wouldn't have wanted it any other way!

Thursday, September 28, 2006

Guess how old I am?

If you ask my dad, he'd say "A quarter of a century. How's it feel to be a quarter of a century years old? Wow, a quarter of a century. Can't believe it's been a quarter of a century since you were born."

Yoga was fun tonight though.

Tomorrow? PARTY! Ok, not really. Plans are to hit the bouldering gym.

Wednesday, September 27, 2006

Cats are expensive

I was on my way to the climbing gym when I got a phone call from Bobby.

J: "Yo, what's up?"
B: "Pierre's about to die."
J: "Um, ok. wtf? I'll be right home."

Well, it was a little different than that, but you catch the drift.
So, Pierre was about to die. We took him to the only animal hospital open, DoveLewis, which is swanky and expensive.

Ended up that Pierre had a urinary tract blockage and he had basically backed up with pee. So, they put him under and removed the blockage. Next day, he came home.

It's better that he didn't die the day before my birthday.

Wednesday, September 20, 2006

Beacon Again

What a great place.
This time, Karen (and Lola of course) , Joe Chicka and I met up at a breakfast spot on Mississippi before heading out. Once we got out, Joe lead the first pitch of Young Warriors (no gear all bolts makes it a bit quicker) then Karen and I did too to warm up.
We then walked over to Cruisemaster, the most 5.9 5.7 I've ever climbed. A delicate, good sized finger crack with smears for feet lead to a tricky bulge for traversing. The rest was chill. On the rope throw to rappell, of course I get the shit STUCK in the tree. Like, really stuck. Like, wrapped around branches that won't break stuck. Awesome.
SE Face, the first ascent at Beacon was then lead by Karen, her first gear lead. She did a great job. Joe cleaned, then I lead it. Good stuff.

Hopefully the rain will let up and we can make it back!

Sunday, September 10, 2006

Beacon Rock

Karen, Joyce and I climbed at Beacon Rock this weekend. They had never been there, and I had only been once before, a few days after moving to Oregon, but I didn't climb.

After going to the wrong side of the tower, we finally found the area that had a route we wanted to do. Free For All is a 5.8 trad route that has some minor face climbing and some pretty interesting crack climbing. I'm not much of a hand-jammer, so I tended to climb the crack like it was a face. The route is 150 feet long, so needless to say I was glad to finally reach the anchors. Joyce followed and then was lowered, where Karen climbed and was lowered. I rapped off and called it a day. Karen and Joyce both got on an interesting looking 10d/11a, Free For Some top rope and then called it a day.

After paying $16 (yeah, that's right, SIXTEEN DOLLARS) for what was the last open campsite at Beacon Rock State Park, we chilled with a few games off Hoopla. How the hell was I supposed to Soundstage accurately Harrison Ford?!?

After getting a so-so night sleep with a shit-ton of strange dreams, we ate breakfast then headed over to the rock. Cruisemaster was already being climbed, so we opted for Young Warriors, a 5 pitch 5.9. Joyce lead the mixed first pitch. Karen followed, then I swung the lead. The 2nd pitch was kinda hairy...

So, I'm not a trad climber. I, you know... boulder. Occasionally I do some routes in the gym. While I love the thrill of gear climbing, I have a lot to learn to make me a better climber. I forgot took a sling off a draw that I REALLY should have left on. Luckily I didn't generate the 50lbs of rope drag until the end, which was a pretty easy scramble. I did almost fall of once at what I'd call the crux.

With a high right foot, I locked off on my left hand and luckily found a good right side-pull. Shifting my weight, I moved my left hand up to pretty much nothing. A bit of figiting and I slipped my left hand onto a jug, then hung out. That might have been the sequence that slightly pulled my groin, not 100% sure.

So, once at the Tree Ledge, with Darren from Climb Axe (new store at 28th and Sandy!) I took a bit too long and kinda upset Joyce and Karen. It was hard to hear, and the rope was acting like an ass. Plus, Darren and his crew were chatting it up. Regardless, I should have talked over the communication signals with K & J before we started climbing anyway.

Upon rapping down, the rope got tangled in a tree. Then, I got tangled in the tree trying to get the rope untangled. Terra Firma never felt so good!

a lot more...

here's a bunch of links I've wanted to post to for quite some time.